One thing has always bothered me about men's coats in this period. Where do those big pleats (on either side of the center back vent) come from? The side pleats are easy--there is a seam there, and a pair of buttons and pocket flaps to hide the train wreck of stitches from which they hang. The only thing that makes sense is a big horizontal seam right across the back.
Not terribly obvious, is it? Except for the six sets of weird stitches, (actually close worked buttonholes from the last post.) At the start of the 18th century, the entire length of the center back opening of coats could have buttons and buttonholes. This one only has six. It is the top pair of decorative buttonholes that hides the seam. Clever little bastards, those tailors.
Next time, the mystery pleat's inside.