Tuesday, September 11, 2012
The ends of the hooks and eyes should be even with the fold in the lapel, and strongly stitched to the interfacing. The buttonhole tapes on the lapels SHOULD line up when the coat is hooked.
Here is a closeup of a pair. I purchased these from William Booth Draper, great folks with a fantastic selection of 18th-century stuff. To cover this mess, British military coats were lined with Bay (a loosely woven plain wool,) for nearly 300 years. Prior to 1768 it was the same color as the coat facing. After, it was white or buff. The front linings have separate skirt pieces, and since the pocket flaps on the coat are fake, there are internal pockets in the lining waist seam.
Here is what the finished pocket looks like:
This is drunk tailoring at its finest.