Friday, January 3, 2014

Layers

Happy Birthday to ME!

My girlfriend's parents were kind to me this year. Must be VERY careful with the new and improved Paunch II sewing form. I broke the previous one with much hard yanking and spinning. All in all, it was an excellent holiday.

I spent the last day of 2013 helping a local living history museum with their patterns for men's clothes. Flattering to be asked. Since it is so damned cold out, I'm overdue for an overcoat.

My New Year's Resolution is not to make everything so &^%$# tight. Among the hard lesson from the early days of learning to sew: don't forget the clothes underneath. Amazing how much a shirt, waistcoat, and coat add to body measurements.

 Here is a half-lined great coat front, buttoned over my regimental. Doing it inside out makes marking the side and shoulder seams easier, while the pocket bags just sorta hang there. The fronts are pinned to the regimental coat, with some ease, making sure everything is straight. Now for the back.


The center back seam is finished, and the lining is tacked at the waist and collar opening. With the lining pieces folded back, the fronts and backs are pinned together. After marking everything with chalk, the seams can be unpinned. The side seams are sewn to just past the pleats. The shoulder seams are finished, everything gets pressed, and the arm holes are cut to match.

The edges of the lining can now be turned and finished over the coat seams, but leave the edges around the neck and arm holes free for other bits to be fitted.

Wonder if the sleeves should be lined?

2 comments:

  1. I'm not sure of the historic need for sleeve linings, but I have always used them, as it makes the garment easier to et on and off, and its another layer for warmth. I always use something slippery, but of course I don't know what wo I'd have been period correct? Cotton drill, or light linen? Would they have had access to some silk, or would it have worn out too badly and too quickly?

    ReplyDelete
  2. I think it will end up being linen. The good news is the sleeves are huge so it is easier to get in and out of.

    ReplyDelete