Monday, August 17, 2015


Here is a  finished pocket flap, the interfacing gives it a nice heft, it should close with a thunk when dropped. The tab at top gets back-stitched upside down, on a line between the lowest button on the waistcoat and the vent at back. Turn the flap seam allowance up into the lining and whip it down.

 The pocket opening should be cut slightly smaller than the flap, and  all the edges of the worsted need turning to avoid fraying.

Turn the bottom edge of the pocket bag first and whip-stitch it to the turned edge of the opening bottom. Fold the bag back up and buttonhole-stitch the side edges of the wool pocket cut to the bag back.

Turn the top of the wool pocket opening and whip to the back of the bag. Back-stitch the sides of the bag together to form a pocket. Whip all the edges that don't have selvage. Back-stitch the pocket flap cross the top to hold it down. Repeat all these steps on the other waistcoat front.

Next time, linings.    

Sunday, August 9, 2015

Basting and Buckram

First thing to watch with worsted is it may have an inside and an outside. The outside will be slightly fulled, the inside will have a visible weave. A stiffened canvas insert is basted inside this pocket flap. After the edges are whipped down a lining piece, with all of it's edges turned gets sewn to it. Once that's done the basting can be removed.

Here is more Buckram interfacing basted into the waistcoat front. This is the middle, where it transitions to double-breasted. Period waistcoats and coats often included a folded strip of linen on top of this for use as a button stand. As with the pocket flap this will be lined, but with the same red stuff.  The outside of the interfacing gets prick stitched to the worsted to keep it from shifting.

Next time pocket bags and linings.