Pew and Pocket Flaps

Great times were had at Frederick, Maryland. Chaps from the Fort Dobbs garrison and the Fort Pitt Museum formed a combined company of North Carolina Provincials serving with General Forbes in 1758. Good lads. Brandyn Charlton took this Last of the Mohicans shot of us. In the background is the 300-year-old road built by the people we are portaying.

There is something satisfying about marching with an axe or spade instead of a musket. Roadwork was part of the scenario, a job the Provincials performed, even though the public couldn't see it. Shovelling dirt into ruts in the heat, felling trees, all while dressed like Natives may sound boring, but many Carolina men arrived in Maryland without weapons or much else. There was even a coffin maker in the camp to keep us honest. Pew is losing it's appeal.

Here are the front and back of the 1780s Continental Army pocket flaps. These snazzy buggers are purely decorative and vertical, not unlike those on Light Infantry coats in the period. Holes are punched in the cloth, and the shanks are secured with linen tape sewn to the back. Yes, the USA acronym is that old. This is the Kochan and Philips French Blue cloth that was color matched to a surviving American uniform fragment. To save money, the coat is short, with no functional bits.

Equipping and clothing the US Army every year became a headache for the bankrupt Congress. Lack of shoes, hats, small clothes, gear, even food was common. France helped, and some of the clothing was made there under contract.

Things are looking up by 1799. This gentleman's coat is made from fine black cloth, and lined with green silk. Along with custom Death's Head buttons and giant pocket flaps, these under pocket flaps secure the opening and keep the pocket bag from stretching. Less cost-cutting here. The nine-piece lining is made from three different materials depending on visibility. The back and sleeves are cheap cotton.

Fatigue cap scraps will be useful when it comes to the cuffs on the Continental coat. A combination of stotting and piecing will simulate frugal construction. In the experimental history department: how did folks in the past deal with Poison Ivy? Perhaps it wasn't as much of a problem then.

Moccasins

Here is something I have always wanted to do:

A Southern Provincial from the second half of the French and Indian War who has gone native. Indian dress was a great cost-saver for the Crown. The English never had the number of Indian allies the French did.

Since Native alliances were hard to establish and even harder to maintain, it was easier to have Provincials learn woods fighting or simply confuse the enemy by looking like Indians.

To go with the wool leggings, breech clout, and shirt a pair of moccasins is in order. Here is an old moc of mine that has seen better days, so I cut it apart to use as a pattern:

The dirty footprint shows these were too small. The next pair will be slightly longer and wider. To learn how to make mocs use Michael Galban's excellent DVD. Two of the most common Woodland patterns are covered in great detail, from patterns to stitching to material sources.

For a brain tan look without the smell or price, Crazy Crow natural color German tan buckskin #2 works well.


An argument could be made for cowhide mocs made by whites closer to civilization, and Crazy Crow has that as well. Here is the pattern in the center of the hide (the thickest part) ready for marking and cutting:

Galban covers how to measure your foot for mocs in the DVD. Since my old pair had cuffs on it they are included in the pattern, but separate attached cuffs were also common. These will be center seam style and very plain. If you plan on wearing them often, best to make extra pairs for when they get wet or wear out.

Next time, the toe is gathered and the center seam finished.