Update

Here is the sleeve, inside-out, with the cuff pinned on. The sleeve is completely enclosed, and the decorative cuff comes to within an inch of the knuckles.  The sleeves caps are a bit of a bother as they can't be gathered, so they need to be reshaped to fit the body. Off the shoulder seams feel weird at first.

A detail of the finished cuff shows the overlap and decorative buttons, three in all. The cuff opening lines up with the bottom sleeve seam. They compliment the long shirt cuffs in this period nicely.

Next, the front linings are sewn to the shoulder seams and arm holes. Lots of pressing around the edges of the padding helps it to blend in. Time to move on to the tails.

These look pretty snazzy for being so small. The pleats should be ironed flat, and some tacks put in so they don't open all the way. Since the tail linings cover the pleats, they will help hold them closed.

There no turned edges on the bottom of this coat, which is nice. No pockets right now, but that may change. On to the collar.

Well, damn. The top coat edges need some blending, and the silver tape will definitely be overkill. All kinds of seam grading going on so the collar doesn't get fat. Fingers crossed the eagles come in the mail soon.

Swallowtail II

The poof! The buttons! The cat hair! With the buttonholes complete, it's time to start tuning the seams. Chest padding gives this coat a unique silhouette. The top button might need to be moved, haven't decide yet. Somehow the length in front matches the waistcoat exactly.  Good news: there isn't much in the way of tail linings on these and the sleeves are pretty simple. Fourteen (!!!) more buttons to add, however.

The body lining is interesting. Since there are layers of interfacing and padding, and the outer fabric is turned, the wool lining is not. Lots of tiny stitches hold it down.

This one gets pinned right-side out, because of the padding. The waist seam helps the shape quite a bit. Note the vestigial pocket flaps. Not sure how to do this without a form. Even a drunkard can get good lines. More good news: the sleeves are only tight from wrist to elbow.

Frankly, the amount of baddassery on this project is slightly overwhelming. The urge to rush things is strong, so the collar and sleeves will be excellent distractions. With the event 30 days away, it's going to be interesting.

Swallowtail

Look at this damned thing--just look at it. A rifle company of the Massachusetts militia wore these uniforms after the War of 1812. Where to start. Forget about the helmet for now.  The padding is remarkable, also that wasp waist (complete with seam.) The collar meets at the center front. The stars and wings are overkill. Minus all the bells and whistles, the Oxford Light Infantry coat should have this shape--poofy.

The quilted waistcoat that goes under the OLI coat is done, but in the time it took to complete I lost a bunch of weight. Unfortunately, I cut out and started the coat before the waistcoat.

Overall shape is good, but front overlap is four inches at the bottom (holy cats!) Poking out the top is the waistcoat collar. Time to rip out the padding, cut back the interfacing, trim the outer fabric. Nothing like completely tearing something apart to learn patience.

There are some adjustments that can be made where the fronts overlap to make it easier to install buttons and make buttonholes. The huge Massachusetts buttons look pretty spiffy. Since the they are held on with cord, each one is separate to avoid bunching and keep them upright.

Holding my breath for when the leather shako kit arrives in the mail.