Stitching

The shako top is on (looks like government contract work.) Here is how to make properly-spaced, straight stitches in thick leather. At right is a saddle maker's stitch grooving tool.  It removes a tiny line of flesh at a set distance from the edge by adjusting the L-shaped bit.

Next to the groover is a marking wheel which leaves perfect dimples, seven per inch, for the awl. A wet sponge keeps the marks permanent. Finished, it looks like this:

The shako's back band already had a top groove for decoration. While not strictly needed, the bottom groove helps guide the marking wheel. If this were an external seam it would keep the stitches straight and even. Time to attach the lining and treacherous peak.

Adjustments

Progress is painfully slow. Emphasis on painful. The top has slowly flattened, and it looks as if the edges won't match up. The shako should have a convex top to fit.

A wet sponge and a perfectly-sized plate will fix the issue. The replica onion bottle full of water acts as a weight on the wet top. Edge stitching is massive PITA. The thread tends to tear out if the hole is too shallow. There are hints of a weird pucker developing. Cross your fingers.

Shako

Slaves to the latest European military fashion, New England's volunteer militia wore the "bell crown cap" starting in 1820. Eastern European  martial influence spread gradually west at the end of the 18th century.

Harness and saddle makers added these to their lines of military accoutrements as they are entirely made of leather. Dyed black, they were coated with gloss varnish, and hung with all manner of metal decorations. The shako is surprisingly light and impractical.

The convex top is wet formed over a wooden mold and cut to the exact shape and size of the body. Stitch holes are marked and punched with an awl.

The body is edge stitched together from the inside and formed over the same mold as the top. After drying, the bottom is cut in graceful curve with a point in the back.  A trim piece is glued on, ending just in front of the ears. Strangely, the body seam is on the front, but none of the stitches are visible and eagles and chain &c. will hide the faint joint.

Matching stitch holes are made at the apex and emerge along the top edge. Careful pressure with the awl prevents (much) finger stabbing.

Before adding the top, a small tab sewn to the front will hold the RIDICULOUS plume (like it needs more decoration.) The distinctive bell shape is apparent.

Nineteenth-century leather workers plied their trade with special wax and flexible hog whisker needles. Drunk tailors use surgical needles, pliers and stab themselves repeatedly.

Invincibles

The spirit of Andrew Jackson ran high in New England during the 1820s. Patriotism, coupled with new found wealth enabled the formation of "volunteer" militia companies in towns large and small. Reform-minded fellows sought to change the image of the drunken amateur soldier.

The Oxford Light Infantry managed to complete their uniforms in time for a visit from Marquis de Lafayette in 1824. Local tailors, sign painters, leather workers, and gunsmiths outfitted the company in ways the US military could only dreamed about.

The "Invincibles" drilled regularly, competed in shooting matches and fought sham battles with companies in other towns. They disbanded sometime around 1838, never having fired a shot in anger. The uniform is quite practical, with the exception of the pack, which has thin cotton straps and can't hold much more than the fatigue hat and some cigars.

Keeping the trousers clean requires some effort, as does the lace (tarnished by the buff.) After examining several surviving coats, the collar was shortened and hooks and eyes added after these photos where taken.

 Derek is wearing the one item needed to complete this uniform: a bell crowned shako. Stay tuned.

Update

Here is the sleeve, inside-out, with the cuff pinned on. The sleeve is completely enclosed, and the decorative cuff comes to within an inch of the knuckles.  The sleeves caps are a bit of a bother as they can't be gathered, so they need to be reshaped to fit the body. Off the shoulder seams feel weird at first.

A detail of the finished cuff shows the overlap and decorative buttons, three in all. The cuff opening lines up with the bottom sleeve seam. They compliment the long shirt cuffs in this period nicely.

Next, the front linings are sewn to the shoulder seams and arm holes. Lots of pressing around the edges of the padding helps it to blend in. Time to move on to the tails.

These look pretty snazzy for being so small. The pleats should be ironed flat, and some tacks put in so they don't open all the way. Since the tail linings cover the pleats, they will help hold them closed.

There no turned edges on the bottom of this coat, which is nice. No pockets right now, but that may change. On to the collar.

Well, damn. The top coat edges need some blending, and the silver tape will definitely be overkill. All kinds of seam grading going on so the collar doesn't get fat. Fingers crossed the eagles come in the mail soon.

Swallowtail II

The poof! The buttons! The cat hair! With the buttonholes complete, it's time to start tuning the seams. Chest padding gives this coat a unique silhouette. The top button might need to be moved, haven't decide yet. Somehow the length in front matches the waistcoat exactly.  Good news: there isn't much in the way of tail linings on these and the sleeves are pretty simple. Fourteen (!!!) more buttons to add, however.

The body lining is interesting. Since there are layers of interfacing and padding, and the outer fabric is turned, the wool lining is not. Lots of tiny stitches hold it down.

This one gets pinned right-side out, because of the padding. The waist seam helps the shape quite a bit. Note the vestigial pocket flaps. Not sure how to do this without a form. Even a drunkard can get good lines. More good news: the sleeves are only tight from wrist to elbow.

Frankly, the amount of baddassery on this project is slightly overwhelming. The urge to rush things is strong, so the collar and sleeves will be excellent distractions. With the event 30 days away, it's going to be interesting.

Swallowtail

Look at this damned thing--just look at it. A rifle company of the Massachusetts militia wore these uniforms after the War of 1812. Where to start. Forget about the helmet for now.  The padding is remarkable, also that wasp waist (complete with seam.) The collar meets at the center front. The stars and wings are overkill. Minus all the bells and whistles, the Oxford Light Infantry coat should have this shape--poofy.

The quilted waistcoat that goes under the OLI coat is done, but in the time it took to complete I lost a bunch of weight. Unfortunately, I cut out and started the coat before the waistcoat.

Overall shape is good, but front overlap is four inches at the bottom (holy cats!) Poking out the top is the waistcoat collar. Time to rip out the padding, cut back the interfacing, trim the outer fabric. Nothing like completely tearing something apart to learn patience.

There are some adjustments that can be made where the fronts overlap to make it easier to install buttons and make buttonholes. The huge Massachusetts buttons look pretty spiffy. Since the they are held on with cord, each one is separate to avoid bunching and keep them upright.

Holding my breath for when the leather shako kit arrives in the mail.