Thursday, May 26, 2016

Pad Stitching Continued

The clock is ticking. Better to race to finish things rather than enjoy the process. Communing with harassed ancestors is what it's all about.  This is the first project with two layers of interfacing, the lining stuff is much lighter. Widely spaced pad stitching holds it over the shoulder to the back.

The right front lining gets a pocket. Here is the bag front stitched on and pushed through the opening. A welt will cover the hole. There is a surviving Federal tail coat with welted pockets on the outside of the tails too, so that's next. It also has simple turn back cuffs.

Another interesting feature is the lining back yoke. Often these are just a flap, this one gets some firm interfacing and a light pad stitch. Here it's sitting on a linen waistcoat and shirt for fit. In period garments this just hangs down, sometimes the bottom edge is pinked. It provides a broad foundation for the horse collar to come.

Strange as it sounds at first, the outer collar is sewn to this neck edge. The under collar, with all it's pad stitching is sewn to the coat body. Furious pad stitching on the lapels holds them up. Where they meet the collar needs to be resolved before the lining goes in. Stay tuned.

Wednesday, May 18, 2016

Pad Stitching

Preserv'ed Tailor remembered his apron this past weekend. The Craven County militia captain appreciated his service and there were extra monies. Our hero used them to pay the laundresses to darn his stockings.  To refine things further, a small box would be useful. Time to add shaving supplies, cleaning brushes &c. Interactions with the other men, sutlers, and laundresses are becoming more refined and realistic.

The 1771 rebellion of farmers in the North Carolina backcountry added a whole new dimension to being a servant. Shoot at the poor in the morning, refill the rich officer's ink pot so he can write out fines for militia infractions in the afternoon. The ironic circle of history.

The fitting pattern for the tailcoat required quite a bit of material removed around the back seams. Ideally, this should be taken from the middle of the fronts in a vertical line. The lazy way (shown here) wrecks havoc with the arm holes. Material needs to be added to make them vertical and right on the edge of the shoulder. With the test sleeve fitted, a savage chalking by Kitty corrected this. This coat is loaded with interfacing, and all of it, as well as the lining and body bits, need to be tuned to the fitting pattern.

Weak past attempts at pad stitching will not do for this coat. It's time to turn to an expert. Whichever evil knucklehead refined pad stitching for men's collars, it has been done this way on bespoke suits ever since. Left handedness is not helpful here. Rory makes it look easy. The under collar has the appearance of a pox sufferer.

Time to cut cloth. Sadly, laundering made it very soft and removed much of the hand it once had. Here is the under collar draped across the coat lining, which gets a light pad stitch to hold the shoulder shape. Our demonic familiar observes the proceedings with some interest. Similar dense stitching is needed on the coat body lapel to match the collar.

The collar interfacing needs trimming and the edges will be turned. The edges of the lining interfacing get whipped to the body to prevent movement. The right one gets a pocket.  We'll do that next time. ALSO: more pad stitching.