Tuesday, June 21, 2016

GCM After Action Report

Well, it's comfortable. Genesee Country Village's early 19th century weekend made an excellent place to test the Summer tail coat. None of the interior seams are finished, the sleeves are not lined and the cuffs just tacked on.  It was way too hot to button anything.

After some initial confusion, our group of seven and a half settled in two different buildings. Rather than interpret a trade we formed a party of well-off folks at leisure, sketching our surroundings with period implements. Using a camera lucida is remarkably difficult, but that may be because it required a bench.

The old trousers and waistcoat made the outfit bearable, but changes are required. These were fine to start, but the yellow pants are not tall enough, and the linen waistcoat is too long. I find these chaps inspiring. Some checked trousers with stirrups perhaps?

The coat revealed some interesting issues. One arm appears to be 3/8" longer than the other. It may be an anatomical problem. Since the sleeves need to be a tad longer it was easy to roll one cuff down slightly more, and make up the difference on the back of the other.

The maddening droop of the overlapping front is fixable. Kitty pressed her face to one of the displays at Genesee (without even being asked) and found two small internal buttons on a period coat. These engage the top and bottom button holes of the right front to hold it up.  Time to whip over the cut lining edges, line the sleeves, and return to the blue neck stock. Last, trousers and a short waist coat.

5 comments:

  1. This coat is awesome! Thanks for the note about the internal buttons - I am working on finishing a linen tailcoat for my husband and so far have just whipstitched the bottom corners to keep them from drooping (while he is in the coat), but that isn't a very sustainable practice.

    Are you going to wear this with your new plaid trousers AND your patterned neck stock? I salute you. The effect will be magnificent.

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  2. I am! I just finished putting in top and bottom internal buttons last weekend. It really fixes the neckline as well as helping with the bottom droop. It is slightly harder to button with two buttons stitched together thorough the coat.

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    1. Excellent! Glad it works. Is it a button stay like this, where the button is attached to the interior directly under the exterior button placement? (Sorry in advance for this huge link: https://2x1dks3q6aoj44bz1r1tr92f-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/Stay-for-sewing-Shank-Benson-Clegg-Brass-Buttons-300x200.jpg)

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