Saturday, December 24, 2011

Pockets and &c.

Merry Christmas, all.

 Here is the marking stitch for a pocket flap. On period coats, the pocket flap is even with the lowest button on the coat front and the hip buttons over the side pleats. The curve matches the top of the flap.

Small problem: sewing is going to be with right sides together, so that reverses the curves. The pocket flap interfacing is cut a 1/4" shorter than the outer material, which acts a as handy measure. The trick is to go slow and check measurements often.

 Once the flap is back-stitched in place, it is pressed down and the seam allowance works as a guide to cut a V-shaped slit in the coat. All the slit edges get turned under, as does one edge of the pocket bag piece. With the two turned edges whipped together, the bottom lip of the pocket is done. The pocket bag is one piece. Folded in half, the other top edge gets sewn above the slit--under all the flap edges in the top of the photo.

All that is left is to back-stitch the bag sides, and buttonhole stitch the edges of the slit to the back of the pocket. A bit of top stitching to finish the flap and four decorative buttons complete things. One down, one to go.





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