Saturday, December 17, 2011

Trainwreck

This mess is the inside of my center back pleat. Cheap lining material covers all the interfacings. The center back opening and side pleat edges are finished. Long, black basting stitches hold everything in place.

Across the top, rough stitches join the pleat to the lining. Also visible are the tiny stitches that close the horizontal seam in the back of the coat. Not terribly intuitive, this old timey tailoring. I'm glad I never learned how to sew, since it is completely bass ackwards from modern sewing.

The two back pieces of the coat have been sewn together, lined, and that's it for construction for awhile. The fronts will get  linings, buttons, pockets, and all edges finished. THEN the coat is fitted and put together. Weird, huh? 

Here is the center back pleat from the outside. On the right, is the first faux buttonhole hiding the center back pleat seam. My best Frankenstein stitching is on the left. Without the buttonholes, M. de Garsault says "the tailor must be very skillful in making his pleat so there is no gap." No kidding. Since there are four buttonholes on the pocket flaps, there should probably be four pairs back here. Depends on how lazy I am.

Next, pocket flaps and pockets.

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